Tuesday, May 24, 2016

Wapiti Crack

"WAPITI" a Shawnee word meaning white rump, or elk.

Wapiti crack is a beautiful sandstone offwidth in southern Utah, it features a short five foot roof about ten feet off the ground, followed by one hundered feet of six inch crack. 


I first heard about this crack from Scott Carson, he's the super friendly guy who works at IME in Salt Lake, oh yeah everyone who works there is friendly, he's the guy with the horrifically fat fingers, turns out those fat fingers are the by product of being a finger crack crusher. 

Whenever I would visit IME, Scott would always tell me about a specific place in southern Utah that he had been developing for many years, he would tell me about the beatiful untouched offwidths that were just waiting for ascents. 

             (Leon loves the desert) 
So Ashley and I finally got around to going down there and found Wapiti, we spent a day cleaning the route with toilet scrubbers and a crow bar, installed some anchors an got to work. 

At first glance, I thought this wouldn't be too difficult, and that Ashley and I would make short work of it. Two full days of absolute failure later, we were still trying to make it around the short roof. 
At the end of day two I finally managed to pull the roof, but unfortunately I had not expected to do so, and hadn't brought the gear I needed to finish the pitch. Ashley and I swapped leads and she subsequently pulled the roof too, we decided to call it a day and come back the next day for the redpoint attempt.

The following morning I took the first lead and blew the moves at the roof, swapped with Ashley and she danced her way to the top. Wahoo go Ashley! 
Feeling quite proud of her, I opted to follow the pitch as she belayed me from the top. 

I'm sure I'll get back and give this one a proper send at some point, but for now this ones all Ashleys. 


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