Saturday, August 3, 2013

Jaws of Flesh

After seven days, and around 20 attempts, I finally finished the project. 

Something really strange happened this time, It was at the crux, and I couldn't get my right foot to feel comfortable enough to take my body weight, after what seemed like an eternity struggling, I lost hope and gave up. 
Pulling my fist stack out of the crack, I looked at the ground, preparing for the head first whipper I'm all too comfortable with. But I didn't, my foot got horribly stuck and I was left dangling off a single foot. 
Last time I got my foot stuck over my head, it was on a boulder called Razzmatazz and all that jazz, I was by myself (bad decision) and it took me several minutes to untie my shoe and get my foot out. It was one of the most terrifying things I've ever encountered.
         (Razzmatazz and all that Jazz)
And now it's happened again! But something changed inside of me, on Razzmatazz I really thought I was going to die, but I believe it was that experience that prepared me. I became calm, closed my eyes, and took a deep breath. I remember thinking that it was a blessing, because now I could make the next move. I sat up, threw everything into pivoting right side up, and it all just came together. 
Yes, getting your foot stuck over your head is a blessing in disguise. 
I'm calling it "Jaws of Flesh" 5.12;)

I'm excited to see other people get on it! It's in Little Cottonwood Canyon, at the waterfront area, start on Jay Anderson's "on the waterfront" but instead of climbing out the hand crack, continue straight in the offwidth through and out the roof, takes fours to sixes, and ANCHOR YOUR BELAYER! There's some seriously decking potential.