Monday, July 29, 2013
I'm getting back on the project tomorrow! I've spent six days working on it, with about four to five tries per day. Is seven my lucky number?
The climb is overhanging fours to sixes, with a wicked flare. The sides are offset making it incredibly difficult to get into the crack. The crux move is about ten feet from the chains, it's a heinous pivot to an over hanging arm bar. Yuck!
So how hard is it? The real answer is, I have no idea!!! The bottom section feels like Trench Warfare's crux (start), and the crux feels like the pivot on The Forever War (Pamela Packs 13+R), but considering I still haven't red pointed Bob Scarpelli, and Jay Anderson's "Big Pink" 11b, who really knows what it could be!
All I know is the fall is terrifying, if you don't anchor your belay, you may deck. And if you whip too hard, there's a good chance you'll pendulum head first into the back wall. Haha...
Friday, July 26, 2013
When I started climbing I wanted to be a boulderer, I think I was attracted to the power involved in it, I set a goal to move up a V grade every month, and I did, but then I discovered a rope, and forgot completely what a boulder was. Climbing was now about getting scared, big falls, and onsite attempts. The higher off the ground the better, one year from starting climbing I bought a trad rack, and became obsessed with the art of crack climbing.
One day I set out with a friend to climb a route called "fire starter" it was an "offwidth" or wide crack, I chose the route because I had just bought a large tri cam protection device, that would work in a six inch crack. I placed my new piece from the ground, got in the crack and started. I crammed my arm deep in the crack, and twisted my hips until they stuck, I clawed at the rock with my free hand and kicked at the wall beneath me. The crack never seemed to end, and my body quickly gave out. I let myself sink out of the crack, waiting for the rope to take my weight, but before it could, I was standing back on the ground. I had never actually made any upward progress. How had this stupid 5.9+ embarrassed me so badly?
I became obsessed, climbing every wide crack I could, and watching every video available. And that's when I found it, a video of roof offwidth, "Trench Warfare" the hardest offwidth in northern Utah, right across the canyon from my nemesis Fire Starter. The climb was the scariest thing I had ever witnessed, upside down in a cave, with boulders to smash into if you fall in the wrong place. It was then that I knew I wanted to climb offwidths.
Hello everyone, welcome to my blog.
My name is Danny, I like to climb rocks, and take pictures. Pretty Simple stuff!
(Climbing done lubbin, belay; Jay Anderson, photo; Pamela Pack)